Summer in the Valley

The Alberni Valley , my home, is located in the middle of Vancouver Island, at the head of a narrow forty kilometre long inlet which originates on the Pacific Coast. Three main rivers flow through the valley, converge, and and empty into the inlet. There are countless streams and lakes that are also a part of this fertile network which is home for salmon, the lifeblood of the Pacific Northwest. In early summer front yards on the Tseshaht reserve are spread with nets and floats and boats that are cleaned and repaired for the upcoming sockeye run. It is an exciting day when the boats hit the water to net the salmon as they come down the rivers to enter the ocean. Much of the fish that is caught is kept in the Indigenous community for family food and ceremonial practices. Some is sold to commercial buyers, and in an abundant year, the fishermen/women and their families sell out of the back of a truck, or from a cooler in a front yard to any lucky person driving by. This has been a good year. What a privilege to be able to buy a salmon on the side of the river where it was caught a few hours ago.

When I get a fish home, I fillet it and give the scraps to Jaxon. I often take a nice chunk from the centre and cure it for gravlax. I grill a few pieces for dinner and freeze the rest. I try to stock the freezer with enough to get me through the winter. To me, salmon is the most versatile, visually beautiful, and delicious protein out there. I love salmon, it is synonymous with summer.

Another iconic local product that I love is the humble cucumber. The Rage family started farming in the valley in the 60s with a 40 acre plot along the beautiful Stamp River. They now have greenhouses all over the Island, but they will always be a family owned company with its roots in the Alberni Valley. They grow mostly cucumbers now, which are distributed to grocery stores throughout the province. Cucumbers are beautiful summer food. If you like Asian flavours, thick slice and toss with a little rice vinegar, fish sauce, honey and chilli oil, marinate, then garnish with chopped roast peanuts, cilantro and mint. Yum!! Sliced super thin, squeezed almost dry, and dressed with sugar, vinegar and dill is delish with a grilled sausage. They are also a nice addition to a potato salad or the classic tomato, basil and balsamic concoction. When I had my taco shop, on July 1st and on BC day I always served a salmon taco with cucumber salsa. Salmon and cucumber are a match made in heaven. Some gravlax with sliced cuke and cream cheese from our local Buffalo farm on toast is breakfast fit for a goddess. A simple piece of grilled fresh salmon is turned into a thing of beauty with the addition of tzatziki with plenty garlic and fresh mint. Tzatziki is a great dip or accompaniment to anything off the grill, it is my go to condiment all summer.

A more diverse family farm that has been in the valley for decades is Naesgaard’s. Their store is located on the edge of town, with fields around it that grow lovely seasonal fruits and vegetables. It is also a garden centre, boutique of sorts, and when winter arrives it turns into a Christmas consumer wonderland. But, back to the food. Their strawberries, peas, carrots and potatoes are eagerly awaited each year. They grow romaine lettuce bigger than your head and also stock produce from other local farmers. But their most anticipated produce is the corn. The store is in a frenzy the first days it is available. When people become sated, and it is possible to approach the corn bin without getting elbowed or tripped, I grab a half dozen cobs or so. I love good corn, and we all know it is best fresh picked, so I boil or grill one or two, and then freeze the rest whole for winter feasts.

You may have to look, but we have some unique and special gems here in the valley. There are some very fine bakers, one of whom sells her excellent artisanal sourdough bread and bagels from the back of a bookstore. Brilliant. Leda farm grows their beautiful produce and flowers bio dynamically, and according to the phases of the moon. The lovely Iris has bountiful flower gardens that provide us with luscious bouquets from spring through fall, without breaking the piggy bank. There is a Buffalo farm near my house where I can buy fresh mozzarella, buffeta, and other delicious products, including gelato! You don’t have to look hard to find fresh eggs all year long.

When I was growing up in the big city, we didn’t have access to food fresh from the farm. It wasn’t until I lived in Portugal in my early 20s that I ate fruit and vegetables from the fields, and fish right off the boats. What a revelation! Real food!! It makes me happy that farmers markets and community gardens have sprouted up in even most dense of Canadian urban jungles. I am now an ardent consumer of all things local. Summer is a celebration of bounty from the earth and the water. As summer progresses we have so much to look forward to. Blueberry season is right around the corner, followed by field tomatoes, juicy garlic, corn, squash, the ubiquitous zucchini, mushrooms, apples, cherries, maple syrup….and so much more.

I am not a gardener, fisher, farmer or forager. I grow a few cherry tomatoes and some fresh herbs every summer, and am thrilled when they actually succeed! I am so very grateful for all of the people who work so hard to provide food security in our little valley. I have berries, fish and corn all year long. The pantry is stocked with jams, preserves, honey, maple syrup, flavoured vinegar, and other goodies. We may not have the variety that is available in the larger, fancier communities to the east and south of us, we are small but mighty. Knowing the people that provide your sustenance, knowing where your food comes from, is a beautiful gift. It fills me on so many levels.