Tales from the Taco Shop

I am really resistant to long term planning. I am not ashamed of that. I gave up trying to live by the rules long ago. So far, so good.

In the spring of 2007 I left my job, and by September had run out of EI and didn’t see any reasonable work opportunities in my area. I was 50 years old, and I was broke. There was an option of continued EI payments if I took part in an entrepreneurship program. Seemed like an easy way to put off looking for a job. I jumped through all the hoops with a certain detachment, but when I was pushed to produce some ideas to stay in the program, opening a taco shop seemed like a plan I could live with. At that time, there were no Mexican eateries in town, and the selection of lunch restaurants, mostly fast food chains, was rather bleak. It was the perfect time to introduce something spicy, with real food, made with love.

I found a kiosk for incredibly cheap rent in a waterfront location, right in the middle of Harbour Quay, a multi use green/retail/light industrial space owned by the City of Port Alberni. It measured 200 s/f, had a brick floor, a glass greenhouse peaked roof, and shutters all around that opened onto the park and a playground, with the Alberni inlet in the background. On Saturdays the thriving farmers market took over the adjacent parking lot. My shop kitchen had about the same square feet of a food truck, but it was stationary, and in the best location. I fell in love with this spot, and after some rustic renovations and installations, I opened All Mex’d Up Taco shop on May 12, 2008. That day we sold $61.50. The next day $30.00. Let’s call it a soft opening.

The food and the menu I created was based on my interpretation of Mexican street food. Over the last four decades, I have spent many months travelling in Mexico, through many regions, and food has always been a focus.

I travelled mostly solo, and often ate at the counters of roadside taco stands and market stalls. I was able to observe how beautiful, deeply flavoured creations were produced from tiny, minimalist kitchens. I incorporated what I had learned from watching the cooking in the open kitchens, eating the food, and talking to the vendors and the women shopping in the markets. I researched ingredients and their sources. I never claimed authenticity. I made real food with real food.

I received some local press, and word of mouth spread. Pretty soon there were lineups and my tiny kitchen was worked hard. Because of the open kiosk and location, the shop was only viable in the summer months. I was given the opportunity to lease the cafeteria in our local college from September through April, which fit well, and gave us a year round business. I loved both of my locations. Running a school cafeteria is a bit cliche, and kind of a wish come true. I was lunch lady, making food with the same ethos as the taco shop, but different menu. I loved working in the college. It had been 35 years since I had been in school, and for once, it was a positive experience.

Five years later I was feeling itchy. Moving between locations was complicated and difficult, the months of September and April we ran both the locations and were stretched. The Harbour Quay location was getting too busy for the space. It turns out that running a tiny taco shop wasn’t as easy as it looked. I decided to sell, and find another project. A week after listing my business, a property across the street from the taco shop came up for lease. It was still in the sweet little Harbour Quay community, but was an actual 700 s/f building, with a bathroom, three walls and a roll up garage style front looking out to a patio, the green space, and a donut shop and art gallery as neighbours. After signing the contract, I got that heart busting rush of optimism and an adrenalin high that comes with a new adventure.

I will stop the narrative here. Up until now I haven’t mentioned Jimmy, but he is very much part of this story. Jimmy was my guy. We had been living together for eight years at this point. Although I started this business on my own, Jimmy became more and more involved as his dock work dried up, and I needed more hands on deck. Jimmy was a hard worker, a generous man with a huge heart, and an addict. He brought all the chaos of that life to our home, and our business. About a month into demolition on the new location, in late October of 2012, Jimmy died of an overdose. His family and I were devastated. Everything was put on hold, and I wasn’t sure if I even wanted to continue with the business. It seemed a monumental project to attempt on my own.

At this point Jimmy’s family stepped up. His brother is a builder and contractor, and offered to take on the renovation without charging for his time. His mother offered me a loan to tide me over and make it all happen. So, in January 2013, we went ahead, and with the help of friends and family, turned the empty cavernous space into a bright and beautiful restaurant, with a fully functioning well equipped kitchen, and 20 indoor seats. It was a difficult time, we worked through our tears, found reasons to laugh, and supported each other. Building this place was hard, but healing. Jimmy would have loved it, I missed him, but was relieved for a predictable life.

I opened All Mex’d Up Taco Shop 2 in February 2013, with little fanfare, and high hopes. Although it was the depths of winter, the people came. And kept coming. I loved my place when it was rocking, Cuban hip hop blasting, doors wide open, a constant stream of hungry people lining up and spilling out onto the picnic tables with burrito in hand, and a happy smile. My base of regulars grew. I knew probably knew 70% of my clientele by their names, and their preferences. Who was vegan, gluten intolerant, hated cilantro, no jalapeños, double jalapeños!! I knew the kids orders before their parents did, because that was my job, and I loved it. And they paid with their loyalty. I ran my business with my heart, not my business head. I am not ambitious, I was making enough money, I was living my dream, I didn’t need more. Despite pressure, I refused to open longer hours. I usually closed the shop at 5, locked the door, went into the storage shed and smoked a joint, cranked the music and danced with mop in hand.

I was fulfilled. I received much satisfaction from feeding people good food, and the human connections I made enrich my life to this day. But my work/life balance was suffering. In my previous life I had worked seasonally, and had lots of time for travel, and visiting far flung family and friends, and I missed that freedom. I hadn’t been to my beloved Mexico in 10 years. I know that many of my colleagues in the restaurant/hospitality industry would scoff at my 60 hour weeks, but I was no longer trying to break any records for suffering and deprivation. I wanted the luxury of time, I was tired of being tired. So, I pondered moving on.

Although I had a lot of help and input making this business what it was, I was personally connected to every detail, and I was very proud of it. My shop was a big part of me, but I wanted to reconnect with my homebody, cat mama, book reading, leisurely wandering through the forest, hanging in the hammock, beach bum, contemplative, self. Fortuitously, before I was pushed into making a decision, one of my regulars came to me with a purchase and plan in mind. He was a young local chef who had lots of energy and passion and loved the restaurant. He was just the right person to take this business to the next level.

In February 2017 I handed the taco torch to Matt. By spring he had obtained a liquor licence, expanded the menu and the hours, and brought his own style and group of followers. It was beautiful to see him rocking the joint, his kids and dogs and his friends and their kids and dogs hanging out, he brought a whole new vibe to the place. l was always welcomed as part of the family. His smile, his margaritas and his fish tacos were killer.

The taco shop is now with its third owner, and thriving after 17 years. I am still greeted warmly when I visit for an always excellent fish taco. I am always happy to see that my old regulars still come by, and a little bit of my heart and soul will always be there.

I will leave you with a few recipes from the taco shop. Salsa mama was the backbone for many dishes. It is a basic salsa rojo and found its way into huevos rancheros, chilliquiles, and mixed in the fillings of many tacos and burritos.

Thank you for reading, peace and love, Jude.

Salsa Mama

• 3 to 4 ancho chillies (depending on size), rehydrated in hot water until very soft.
• 1 28 oz can of good quality diced or whole tomatoes.
• 1 smallish white onion, and 5 or 6 juicy garlic cloves, roasted till soft and golden.
• 1 canned chipotle chilli in adobo, and 1 large spoon of sauce.
• Blend all till semi smooth. Bring to simmer, add 1 tablespoon dried whole leaf oregano (preferably Mexican) and 1 teaspoon ground cumin (hopefully from roasted and fresh ground seed).
• If it’s so thick it explodes in the pot, add some water from the soaked chillies, or tap water to loosen it up. Simmer on low to let all the flavours marry.

Tortilla Soup

• Broth: 3 cups each Salsa Mama and a rich chicken stock. Bring to a simmer. Make a slurry of 2 or 3 tablespoons masa harina and some water or stock and blend in. (optional, but adds flavour and texture)
• Take 4 nice soup bowls. In each bowl put 1/4 of a diced avocado, a grating of mild melting cheese, and some shredded chicken, if you want.
• Ladle in the broth. Top with fresh cilantro, diced tomato, diced onion, a bit more grated cheese or feta, and a handful of fried tortilla strips. Serve with a wedge of lime.

Enchilada Sauce

• Cut the Salsa Mama around 70/30 salsa to chicken or veg stock. Add some 35% cream to smooth it out. Dip your tortillas for the enchiladas into this, roll up your fave fillings, and once they are built, pour over more sauce. Top with grated cheese, and finish in the oven.

Mexican Red Rice

• In a heavy bottom pot, with a tight fitting lid, sauté in oil about 1/2 carrot, diced, 1/4 white onion, diced, 1/2 tomato, diced, 1 juicy garlic clove, minced, and a small handful of chopped cilantro.
• When the veg are a bit soft, add 1.5 cups short grain white rice and stir till nicely combined.
• Add around 1/2 of a cup of Salsa Mama, combine and bring heat up.
• Add 3 cups of rich chicken or veg stock, a healthy pinch of salt, bring to a simmer.
• Cover the pot, turn the heat right down to low, steam for 20 minutes.
• Fluff up rice when it is done, adjust salt, add a handful of peas if you want.

Buen Provecho!!!